Buenos Aires
A Sunday Afternoon at the Feria de Mataderos
Dec 11th
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| Zamba Folk Dancers |
By Roy Heale
Many visitors to Buenos Aires are already familiar with the well known markets in San Telmo, Palermo, and Recoleta. But if you want a real South American experience, be sure to visit Mataderos to see the gauchos—Argentine cowboys—and their families, who come from the countryside with unique displays of horsemanship, handicrafts, live music, folk dancing, and delicious foods at the Feria de Mataderos. In 2011 this Fair of the Argentine popular handicrafts and traditions celebrates its 25th Anniversary.
This is one of the best-kept secrets in Buenos Aires, a weekly event that takes place during the spring, fall, and winter months on Sundays, from about 11am and until around 8pm—during January there is no Feria at all, and then in February and March they hold a down-sized version on Saturdays nights, starting at about 6pm.
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| Unique Vendors |
All the fun of the gaucho fair takes place in one of the poorest sectors of the capital. Mataderos, and its neighboring barrio of Liniers, were once where cattle traditionally arrived from around the country, were slaughtered, and then shipped out as meat to other parts of the capital. The name Mataderos literally means slaughterhouses – and the area is also often called Nueva Chicago, because of the cattle-killing heritage it shares with America’s ‘Windy City’. For this reason there is an interesting mix of cultures including gauchos, porteños, plus migrant workers from Bolivia and Paraguay. The fair represents this colorful combination of traditions, dancing, and handicrafts.
To get to the fair from other parts of Buenos Aires is about a 45-minute-plus adventurous bus ride on one of the following colectivos: 55, 63, 80, 92, 117, 126, 141, 155, and 180. Of these, the 55 and the 92 are the ones that bring you the closest, with the others you may have to walk a little bit. Just ask the bus driver to let you off at the fair (if you are following your map, with the 55 and 92 buses, the exact intersection you need to get off at is Av. Directorio and Av. Lisandro de la Torre).
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| Inside the Museum Criollo de los Corrales |
Once you have arrived you can spend a few hours taking in the gaucho culture by watching the locals perform their folk dances known as zambas, accompanied by live musicians on a nearby outdoor stage. The zamba—not to be confused with the extremely different Brazilian samba—is a pleasure to watch. It is danced in pairs, a staged routine of flirtation in which the man and the woman dance toward each other and then quickly whirl away, waving scarves or handkerchiefs in flirtatious gestures. The dancers wear traditional Argentine costumes from the countryside, often in bright colors. When the men break into rhythmic step dances—which is similar to tap dancing with gaucho boots— it is very impressive.
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| Stage Entertainment |
With the live band playing folk music on accordions, traditional bombo legüero drums, folk guitars, and vocals, this is a true fiesta, a street party, and people might grab you by the shoulder and laughingly try to pull you into their dancing circle. Participation is the name of the game here and you will feel the friendly Argentine spirit instantly.
Some of the best local Argentine food specialities are available at the outdoor parillas and vendor’s booths. Try the BBQ beef or chorizo (sausage) on a bun, fresh fruits, empanadas, and more! Plus the market vendors offer a wide selection of cheeses, meats, wines, pickles, and local produce at low prices. 
There are also many inexpensive restaurants—most with outdoor seating—offering up delicious Argentine regional treats such as locro, asado, tamales, and torta frita.
There are also many inexpensive restaurants—most with outdoor seating—offering up delicious Argentine regional treats such as locro, asado, tamales, and torta frita. |
| Traditional Meats Cooking on a Parilla |
Street vendors proffer plenty of local handicrafts, and often these will be some of the best deals in Buenos Aires. Specialities of the Mataderos fair are leather goods, stone and silver jewelry, novelties and good-luck charms molded from clay or other natural materials, key chains, wind chimes, and unique items that make great souvenirs or gifts. Usually the price the seller gives you is what you are expected to pay, although if your Spanish is good bargaining is a possibility.
Perhaps the most fun, interesting event at the Feria de Mataderos is the Carerra de Sortija—the “Race of the Ring”. This usually starts at about 3.30pm along a stretch of the road Av. Lisandro de la Torre, and it is when gauchos race their horses at breakneck speeds towards a small ring hung onto a raised metal frame overhead. Each time a gaucho is successful in spearing the ring, the crowds go wild.
So round-up some companions and spend a Sunday afternoon at the Feria de Mataderos to experience provincial Argentine culture and relaxation. Enjoy the colorful music and dance, wonder at the gaucho horsemanship, try some of the foods, take some awesome photos, and don’t forget to find a singular souvenir to take home as a memory.
For Further Information Visit: http://www.feriademataderos.com.ar
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| Local Handicrafts |
Beatles Museum in Buenos Aires
Aug 23rd
Beatles Memorabilia
By Roy Heale
It may not be the traditional Liverpool surroundings for the Fab Four, but the recently opened Beatles Museum in Buenos Aires boasts an amazing collection of memorabilia. Created by 53-year-old Rodolfo Vazquez the museum features thousands of items related to the famous foursome from England. The Beatlemania collecting obsession began for the Argentine accountant when he was just 10 years old.
Rodolfo Vazquez
“With the song ‘In My Life,’ on the Rubber Soul album I fell in love with the Beatles,” Vazquez told The Associated Press. He holds the 2001 Guinness World Record for owning the world’s largest collection of the legendary rock band’s memorabilia. At that point, Guinness noted that he had 5,612 items in the attic of his home in Buenos Aires. His hoard has grown to more than 8,500 records, gadgets, puppets and games since then, more than 2,200 of which are on display in the Beatle Museum that just opened this year at Paseo La Plaza, 1660 Corrientes Avenue 1660, in an area of the capital city where tourists throng. Museum visitors will be able to view items like a check signed by drummer Ringo Starr, a large collection of album covers, toys, figurines, and a brick from The Cavern Club, where the band was discovered in the 1960s.
Museum and Cavern Club Entrances
There are Beatles museums in Liverpool, England, and Hamburg, Germany, that display memorabilia along with objects from the band members’ lives, and other private collections as well. But this storefront museum stands out for the sheer quantity of pieces, carefully arranged in display cases and on the walls. There are objects for all tastes: a box of condoms with the name of John Lennon and Yoko Ono, a wig that says it adjusts to any head size, and signed pictures of the four musicians. Vazquez also keeps accumulating objects, either buying or trading for them with other collectors around the world.
The Fab Four
The Beatles broke up in 1970, but there’s no letup in interest about the band: When their song list was added to iTunes last year, more than 2 million individual songs and 450,000 copies of Beatles albums were sold in the first week.
Although the Beatles never performed in Argentina, people here seem to have a soft spot for them, ensuring that cover bands have regular gigs. Many such bands play in Vazquez’s “The Cavern Club,” a bar next to the museum named after the Liverpool nightclub.
Vazquez claims he doesn’t know the total value of his private collection, which also includes record covers, autographs, toys, original pictures, concert programs, and cups and plates with Beatle images. Other rarities are four music boxes with figures of John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison and Ringo Starr. Vazquez even has certified copies of their birth certificates. Rarities include a hunk of the stage of Hamburg’s Star Club, a strip club where the musicians worked as the house band, at that point with Pete Best as drummer. A pair of drumsticks signed by Best, who was replaced by Ringo Star in 1962, is
in the Buenos Aires museum.
There’s also a piece of the floor of Strawberry Fields, a Salvation Army orphanage near
Lennon’s boyhood home whose name inspired the 1967 psychedelic rock tune “Strawberry Fields Forever.”
Getting the chance to show his treasures to fellow fans is immensely satisfying to Vazquez
and thousands have already rushed to the museum to relive Beatlemania at its best!
Paseo La Plaza, 1660 Corrientes Avenue,
Buenos Aires, Argentina
JARDIN JAPONES PALERMO
Jul 6th
By Roy Heale
In a city of thirteen million people you might think it is hard to escape the urban noise and bustle, but residents of Palermo in the heart of Buenos Aires are fortunate to have large parks and woodlands close at hand. One of the smaller parks within this green space is the Jardin Japones—Japanese Garden—where the Feng Shui influence creates a tranquil escape under the shadows of high-rise towers.
Under the care of the Japanese Cultural Foundation of Arentina these gardens have been in existence since 1969 to create a peaceful oasis for visitors to enjoy year-round. The park was created to honor a visit by one of the Japanese princes of that era. It includes a pavilion with a traditional Japanese tea-house, cultural center, library, and Oriental souvenirs. Plus of course the gardens are landscaped with lakes full of fish and ducks, footbridges, walkways, greenhouse, and ornaments encompassing Feng Shui traditions. A leisurely stroll around the grounds will prove to be a very calming and tranquil relief from the busy city.
Children can enjoy feeding the fish—mostly large Carp—in the ponds or attending an origami folding class in the cultural center. Throughout the year Asian cultural fairs and festivals take place in the grounds.
The garden is located at the intersection of Avenue Berro Adolfo and Avenue Casares opposite the Plaza Alamenia—German Plaza. The park admission is a very nominal two dollars towards the expenses and administration which provides several hours of enjoyment. During the summer the park hours are Monday to Friday 10AM to 6PM and Saturday and Sunday 10AM to 7PM and check their website for winter hours.
Although the park is enjoyable throughout the year it is alive with colors during early spring and late fall. It provides a colorful garden for all the family to enjoy amidst the Palermo woodlands and parks.
It’s just another of the many reasons why Palermo is a popular residential community in the heart of Buenos Aires.
For More Information Visit: www.jardinjapones.com.ar
HELPFUL TIPS FOR THE BUENOS AIRES NOVITIATE
Mar 21st
Photos and Story By Roy Heale
On your first visit to Buenos Aires—also known as the Paris of South America—you are likely to be impressed by the character, style, and friendliness of this enormous gay mecca. Hopefully you were able to spend some time in Spanish language classes before you left home. If you didn’t, then be sure to carry a pocket dictionary as many portenos—as the locals are affectionately called—speak little or no English. However, they are welcoming and friendly to visitors, so with your dictionary, some sign language, and a smile on your face, communication becomes easier.
This very large, populous city can be overwhelming at first and will likely dwarf your own hometown. The best way to begin your visit is with a guided tour of the city in order to orient yourself with the diverse neighborhoods. A personal gay tour guide—fluent in English—costing approximately US$100 for a full day tour will probably customize the route to include your own interests. For those on a lower budget the “Hop On-Hop Off” City Tour Bus provides an excellent three hour round-trip route of major attractions and communities for around US$8 and allows you to embark or disembark at twelve different locations.
Once you are familiar with the city you will discover that the LGBT community resides in several different neighborhoods rather than one gay village. A little research will also reveal that the nightlife doesn’t begin until well after midnight but continues until dawn. Also, dinner is a late night affair which often begins after 10PM and in fact many restaurants don’t open for dinner until much later than you may be used to at home.
Although credit cards are widely accepted throughout Buenos Aires there are always exceptions. For example some restaurants only accept them for payment of dinners and most do not allow you to add the tip onto the credit card bill. Always have ample cash with you to pay for your meal or leave a gratuity. However, this amount of money will be much less than you might expect for dining out in many other countries.
One of the most important handy pocket guides to LGBT Buenos Aires is the GMAPS360 local map and gay guide to all that this city has to offer. Copies are available at numerous locations around the city or online at www.gmaps360.com for research before you leave home.
Enjoy the lower cost of living in Argentina and have a wonderful time in this gay-friendly city. Chances are you will be back for many happy returns like so many other gay travelers who have already discovered that Buenos Aires is the gay capital of Latin America.
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