Posts tagged South America
Gaucho Traditions Preserved in San Antonio de Areco
Apr 8th
Buenos Aires Province, Argentina
Puenta Viejo—Old Bridge
By Roy Heale
Quite often visitors to Buenos Aires are looking for interesting escapes into the local countryside yet close to the city. Those seeking a real gaucho experience and a sample of local history often choose the quaint town of San Antonio de Areco founded in 1730 on the banks of the Areco River. Located about 110 km northwest of the city, the town dates back to the early 18th century and many of the original buildings are well preserved and function today as cafes, restaurants, and boutiques.
Iglesia Parroquial
Residents of Buenos Aires often visit for the peaceful atmosphere and picturesque colonial streets. The traditions of the gaucho and criollo (people of pure Spanish descent born in the New World), are well preserved, especially among its artisans, who produce fine silverwork and saddlery. Gauchos from all over the pampas show up for November’s Día de la Tradición, where you can catch them in their traditional cowboy outfits astride their horses, strutting the cobbled streets.
Historic Buildings
The city is the home of the Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes and has been declared a city of historic national interest by the Argentine Government.
San Antonio de Areco’s compact town center and quiet streets are very pedestrian friendly. Around the Plaza Ruiz de Arellano, named in honor of the town’s founding estanciero (ranch owner), are several historic buildings, including the Iglesia Parroquial (parish church) opened in 1780.
Parilla Delights
There is an abundance of great dining options with prices much more reasonable than those in the City of Buenos Aires. The local specialty is, of course, meats cooked on the parilla with fresh vegetables and salads.
Local Produce
If you prefer a longer visit than a one day excursion, there are a few small hotels around the town offering Bed&Breakfast plus the Hotel & Spa San Carlos on the riverbank park.
Like many other small towns in this part of Argentina, Areco shuts down during the afternoon siesta.
Hotel & Spa San Carlos
Regular bus service runs fro Retiro Omnibus Terminal and the journey is just under two hours depending on traffic.
Take a step back in time, relax and enjoy some Gaucho history in the pampas of Buenos Aires province.
Oktoberfest Celebrations in Argentina?
Jun 28th
Villa General Belgrano, Cordoba
Villa General Belgrano
By Roy Heale
Reputedly the third largest celebrations of Oktoberfest outside of Germany can be found in the small central Argentine town of Villa General Belgrano of the province of Cordoba.
Local Beer Halls
This small mountain hamlet of approximately six thousand residents is named after Manuel Belgrano, the creator of the National flag, and is perched on a hillside of the Sierras of Córdoba. Founded in 1930, by two German land speculators, the Alpine quality of the village attracted immigrants from Germany, Switzerland, Italy, and Austria.
Newcomers to the village, along with the original settlers, landscaped the mountain ranges with red-roofed, wood-frame homes, microbreweries, pastry and chocolate shops imparting that unique Bavarian style which distinguishes it today. Now pedestrians enjoy the magical Bavarian atmosphere as they stroll around the scenic townsite.
The village economy flourishes on a year round steady flow of tourists (peaking in October) with an appetite for German delicacies like apple strudel, leberwurst and spätzle plus of course local brewed beer.
Newsstands sell the German language weekly Argentinisches Tageblatt among other German newspapers, and some of the churches offer Sunday services in German and Spanish. Like many isolated immigrant communities, Villa General Belgrano has respected traditions that fell out of favor in Germany long ago, however even though the mother tongue can still be heard, it is being lost with the passage of time.
Entrance To Festival Grounds
For more than fifty years Argentina’s National Beer Festival has been held in the district of Villa General Belgrano, thus commemorating the German celebration of Oktoberfest. This event is celebrated during eleven intense days in the Beer Park—a central venue especially designed for the occasion. The attendants drink several liters of beer, which are served in giant German mugs. The main beer brands, both national and international, take part in this traditional festival, in which their premium, regular and special products are promoted at various stands. At certain times, the celebration moves into the center of the city, where there is a parade of the communities that have contributed to the formation of the present European identity of Villa General Belgrano. Thus, delegations from Germany, Denmark, Scotland, Spain, the Canary Islands, Yugoslavia, Sweden, Portugal, Brazil, Greece, Italy, Armenia and Ukraine show off their traditional costumes, expanding the cultural spectrum of the festival.
In the afternoons, the simultaneous opening of the beer barrels is carried out. People gather with their mugs held out trying to get some of the free spurts of beer. According to tradition, drinking the beer from those barrels is supposed to bring people good luck.
Ceremonial Opening of the Kegs
The pagan ritual which became known as Oktoberfest originated in Munich, Germany, five centuries ago, in which worshipers believe in the sparkling goddess that enters the body like an icy stream as she takes hold of the spirit. Argentina welcomes the continuance of this long standing German tradition upheld in the natural beauty of the Sierras de Cordoba.
Find some lederhosen and head to Villa General Belgrano in October for a traditional beer festival and fun times in a European atmosphere.
Taking The FerroCentral Train From Buenos Aires to Cordoba Capital, Argentina
Mar 28th
By Roy Heale
FerroCentral Train
Sadly over the years most of the trans-continental trains in South America have vanished from service.
However, in Argentina there is still train availability from Buenos Aires to Tucamen with several stops along the way. Operated by FerroCentral this journey is longer than traveling by road, but for those who enjoy train trips it is a very inexpensive way to make this journey. Used mostly by locals, this requires considerable advance booking—often several months—-as there is limited frequency of only twice per week with a small passenger capacity. Tickets can be purchased at the FerroCentral offices at Retiro train station in Buenos Aires and several classes of service are offered ranging from economy seats to small private cabins.
Recently we chose to experience this train journey for our vacation in the Sierras of Cordoba, taking the long twenty-two hour trip to Cordoba Capital from Retiro. Costing just around US$30 round-trip for two persons we reserved a sleeping cabin (camarote) for comfort and sightseeing pleasure. With this class of ticket a complimentary breakfast for two is included and a simple, adequate dinner is available for an extra US$6 per person including a main course, dessert pastry and beverage. Although the train departed exactly on schedule we encountered problems on the tracks about half-way through the journey close to Rosario and ended up with a seven hour diversion.
Dining Car
Our sleeping compartment was cozy and comfortable so we were able to enjoy the exceptionally long trip. The dining car offered reasonably good, simple meals at exceptionally low prices, but no alcoholic beverages.
Dinner Main Course
Dessert
We opted to get off the train early in Villa Maria and finish the journey to our final destination of Santa Rosa de Calamuchita by bus, which proved to be more efficient whilst still allowing us to enjoy the scenery.
One week after we returned to Buenos Aires in early March, 2015 the Federal Government replaced all the FerroCentral train carriages with brand new equipment and we just missed experiencing this upgraded service.
Overall, if you have the time for the journey and can plan your trip far in advance, this is a unique Argentine experience and the cheapest way to travel to the North West regions of this vast country.
For More Information Visit:
www.sateliteferroviario.com.ar
www.sateliteferroviario.com.ar/horarios/tucuman.htm
A New Shopping Addition To Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Dec 23rd
Distrito Arcos—The Arches District
Paraguay Main entrance to Distrito Arcos
By Roy Heale
The first day of summer in Buenos Aires heralded the opening of the new Distrito Arcos outdoor shopping district. After just over one year of protracted court proceedings regarding the environmental impact of the new shops and parking the new mall has finally opened.
Bounded by Juan B Justo, Santa Fe Avenida, Godoy Cruz, and Paraguay streets, it is close to the new Science Center and the Metrobus or Palermo Subway stations. The developers have recovered the old railway viaduct arches of the San Martin train line for boutique shops and created new retail shops and lush green spaces.
Green Spaces
The shops open inwards onto roofed spaces and the common areas are almost all outdoors. The building’s main feature is the brick construction of the railway viaduct that defines both the inner walls and the façade. Outside, the focus is placed mainly on the green spaces. The commercial promenade is landscaped with green areas that provide the design’s motif. Street benches and other urban features are strategically placed all along, together with terraces, benches, and also a special area for holding events. The building is ornamented with a series of canopies along the arches that convey a rhythmic perspective to the overall construction design.
Unique Design
Distrito Aros is an urban commercial concept with original and unique features that set it apart from traditional shopping centers. Imbued by the premium outlet spirit, it offers a unique shopping experience in the city, combining the best brands with an outlet concept, an interesting range of products, gastronomic options, and the best prices in a unique environment.
Boutiques In The Arches
There are sixty-five local shops, twenty kiosk market stalls, 450 underground parking spaces, a room for artistic activities, and space for art exhibitions. Green areas were planted with over 200 trees and lush tropical plants. It will function as a clothing outlet with known premium brands, more dining options, a fitness center, and other services. It is estimated that would create about 1,200 full time jobs.
Incorporating New Architecture
Familiar names like Starbucks, Adidas, and Levis are present along with local brand name chain stores like Wanama, Rapsodia Vintage, and of course the popular Argentine Freddo ice cream chain. The complex exudes a relaxing, tranquil shopping atmosphere and is sure to prove popular with tourists and locals alike.
Main Entrance: Paraguay 4979
For More Information:
Hotel Urbano—Vacation on the River at Carmelo, Uruguay
Dec 3rd
Hotel Urbano
By Roy Heale
Nestled along the banks of the Arroyo de las Vacas river creek, Carmelo is a small town located in western Uruguay, noted for its wineries, beaches, and laid back lifestyle. The river runs along the east and south part of the city and serves as a port for the town. On its north bank there is the Puerto Carmelo-Tigre, where small catamaran boats carry passengers across the Río de la Plata to Argentina.
Puente Giratorio de Carmelo
A swing bridge, the Puente Giratorio de Carmelo, which opened on May 1st 1912, passes over the river joining the north part of the city with its small southern community. Here another port along the southern banks of the river hosts a marina for private boats plus the CarmeloYacht Club. Along the coast there is the extensive white sandy beach Playa Seré, a large green space park with picnic areas and parillas (BBQs) for public use, a small zoological garden, and a Casino Hotel. It is here where every day the locals enjoy long sessions of drinking mate while sport fishing in order to catch bogas and pejerreyes from some of the breakwaters which go hundreds of meters deep into the waters.
Playa Seré Beach
Another attraction is the mouth of the Las Vacas waterway where numerous sports watercrafts and sailing boats traverse the area to enter Carmelo. The yacht pier and the nautical campsite, where it is possible to camp by the river, are distinctive and popular.
Plaza Indepencia
There are two main plazas in the city. One is Plaza Artigas, with a monument to the foundation of the city in 1816, the church Templo Histórico del Carmen plus the city museum and archive. The other, more central, Independence Square—also known as Sculptures Square—is the commercial hub of the city. The main business street is 19 de Avril, which connects at the south end with the bridge to the southern shores.
Hotel Urbano Second Floor Terrace
In this small resort town there are two choices for your accommodations. One is in the resort community by the river beaches and the other is in the heart of the small downtown. The Hotel Urbano is the perfect choice on a quiet side street in the downtown area. It is just a couple of blocks from the Main Plaza Indepencia which is the heart of the city. This modern, bright and clean hotel offers almost twenty spacious rooms in different sizes and sleeping configurations. There are singles, doubles, triples, superiors, and suites to select the ideal size for your own requirements. On the second level there is a large outdoor patio and sun deck to spend those quiet moments. The main floor lobby café/bar offers a complete buffet breakfast with pastries, breads, fruits, juices, coffee, tea, ham, cheeses and more. There is also a relaxing street level outdoor patio for those who like to dine or sit outside. Rooms are reasonably priced and the buffet breakfast is included. This ideal hotel is a great home away from home when visiting the beautiful and historic town of Carmelo.
Bright Spacious Rooms
Buffet Breakfast
During the summer months this is a very popular outdoor destination for Argentines and Uruguayans who want to escape the big city heat and bustle to relax in the tranquil country atmosphere. Inexpensive catamaran ferries operate daily by Cacciola from Tigre, Argentina to Carmelo and provide an extremely enjoyable 2.5 hours passage through the Rio de la Plata Delta islands.
Cacciola Ferry
For More Information:
http://www.carmelohotelurbano.com
www.welcomeuruguay.com/carmelo/index_i.html
Local Markets at Ing Maschwitz, Buenos Aires
Jul 5th
Mercado Maschwitz
By Roy Heale
The small town of Ing Maschwitz in the province of Buenos Aires was named after Carlos Maschwitz
who was born in Buenos Aires on May 7, 1862, son of Mr. Georg Eduard Maschwitz, first manager of the Bank of London.
Emilio Mitre Square
Today this small historic village is home to the Mercado Mendoza and the Mercado Maschwitz offering a selection of local restaurants, cafes, boutiques, and local handicrafts. Using recycled materials, the unique construction of these markets is slightly reminiscent of La Boca in the city of Buenos Aires but less commercial and more authentic Argentine. There is a new market under construction scheduled to open in December 2014 and using large steel shipping containers for the main building materials.
Zeppelin Restaurant Garden
This is a popular place with local residents for weekend brunches and shopping expeditions. Just a one hour bus ride from the city of Buenos Aires, it is also a well known escape from the city to enjoy the relaxed rural pace of life.
Mercado Maschwitz
In the Emilio Mitre Square, which is also the central park for the townsite, ther is an old London phone booth which has been converted into a unique public library.
London Phone Booth Library
This charming village is a relaxing place to spend a day away from the traditional tourist attractions and experience the real rural Argentine customs and lifestyle.
New Market Under Construction
Getting There: Take the Escobar express bus from Plaza Italia in the city and ask the driver to announce Maschwitz. Upon arrival at the town it is a short walk to the village or the markets located on Mendoza Street.
Mercado Mendoza
Explore the Charming Colegiales Barrio, Buenos Aires
Jun 6th
Charming Colegiales Architecture
By Roy Heale
The Colegiales Barrio of Buenos Aires offers a laidback alternative to its noisier neighbors Palermo and Belgrano. Covering just over two square kilometers, it is one of the city’s smaller barrios and a largely residential one. Known for its large, open green spaces and treed residential streets, Colegiales is squeezed between Belgrano, Chacarita, and Palermo. Although it is off the tourists’ beaten track there are some interesting points of local history to discover.
Historically Colegiales was paired with Chacarita—the barrio situated immediately south—and the two were originally known as Chacarita de los Colegiales. In its beginnings this community was made up of small Jesuit-owned estates that were utilized as student retreats. In 1767 the Jesuits were expelled and the Spanish took control of the land. After the turn of the century and the commencement of Bernandino Rivadavia’s government in 1826, large numbers of European immigrant workers settled in the area and forced it to be divided into the two separate barrios of Chacarita and Colegiales.
Street Art
Today, Colegiales maintains a strong residential feel that is characterized by its sleepy cobblestone streets lined with overhanging trees. With its close proximity to Palermo, the neighborhood is experiencing increased numbers of bars and restaurants.
One major tourist attraction of Colegiales is the Mercado de Pulgas—Flea Market. Founded in 1988 and situated at the intersection of Avenida Dorrego and Alvarez Thomas, this indoor market presents an eclectic collection of furniture, art work, antiques and other curiosities. If you are planning to stay long term in Buenos Aires you might just find a bargain for your new apartment here.
Mercado de Pulgas—Flea Market
When in Colegiales you can retrace the footsteps of some of Argentina’s most famous sons. The comic strip Mafalda—-written by humorist Quino (Joaquin Salvador Lavado)—was based on the barrio and Plaza Mafalda is dedicated to the creator and his artwork. Other famous names of the barrio include journalist Ulises Petit de Murat and inventor Ladislao Jose Biro. The latter invented the ballpoint pen and Fundacion Biro (Cramer 450) is dedicated to helping and promoting young Argentine inventors.
On a sunny day, take time to relax in one of the many plazas or take a stroll along Pasaje General Paz, (a narrow pedestrian promenade) which attracts visitors to see its mature trees, bridgepaths, streams and ornate, balconied Andalusian-style patios. Avenida Elcano is a wide leafy boulevard that connects the barrio with Belgrano and Chacarita. Situated on the latter you’ll also find Elcano Grill, a classic neighborhood parrilla, and The Oldest, a pleasant British-styled pub.
Pasaje General Paz
When venturing deep into the back streets of Colegiales you will be treated to a wonderful mix of classic porteño cafés, closed-door restaurants and live music venues.
Mix with a stylish hipster crowd at Pipi Cucu (Ciudad de la Paz 557), a quirky French bistro-restaurant. Mismatched plates, glasses and cutlery add to the aloof charm of the place whilst the bartenders are known for mixing delights such as red fruit martinis.
Pipi Cucu French Bistro
Recently, upscale lofts were developed in what years ago were the massive Buenos Aires flour mills (known also as Silos Minetti), at 1916 Dorrego Street. Elegant and trendy, they were built into the silos themselves and have become popular with local yuppies.
Silos Minetti
Colegiales also has a rich religious heritage including The Holiest Corpus Christi Monastery (450 Amenábar St.)which has been the centuries-old home to the Order of Barefoot Carmelites.
The Holiest Corpus Christi Monastery
From Hetero-Friendly to Gay-Friendly, Axel Hotel Buenos Aires Changes Hands
Oct 13th
Buenos Aires, Argentina
BeHotel Entrance
By Roy Heale
In a surprise move during the first week of October the Spanish Axel Hotel Group announced the sale of their Buenos Aires property to a group of Argentine investors and henceforth it will be known as the BeHotel. The former owners did not give any reasons for this unexpected move but local travel industry speculators blamed the decrease in LGBT visitors to Argentina during recent years and the national Government’s foreign exchange controls. However, the new owners and management assured that LGBT visitors will still be welcomed with a gay-friendly reception at the new BeHotel. No major changes or renovations are planned for the facilities but the food and beverage plus customer services will be upgraded for a more enjoyable stay.
Indoor Spa
The Catalan Group, based in Barcelona, commissioned the design and construction of the hotel and it opened as the Axel Hotel in 2007 developing into a major institution of the Buenos Aires LGBT community. BeHotel Buenos Aires is the first establishment of the Argentine investment group, which plans to expand in 2014 with another location in the City of Buenos Aires and other main tourist destinations like Iguazu, Bariloche, or Mendoza.
Designer Rooms & Suites
Uniquely designed with the guest rooms located around a large central atrium and a spa on the top floor, the spacious designer suites and rooms with the creative use of glass and mirrors have proved extremely popular. The large heated swimming pool at the rear of the building offers plenty of sundecks on multi-levels for summer outdoor enjoyment. Whilst the top floor spa includes fitness equipment, two jacuzzis, sauna, and a swimming pool with a translucent floor.
Outdoor Pool & Sun Decks
HOTEL FACILITIES: Outdoors: Terrace, Outdoor pool (seasonal) Activities: Sauna, Fitness centre, Solarium, Spa and wellness centre, Hot tub, Turkish/steam bath, Indoor pool (all year) Food & Beverages: Restaurant, Bar Internet: WiFi is available in all areas and is free of charge. Parking: No parking available. Other parking garages are close by. Services: 24-hour front desk, Luggage storage, Room service, Meeting/banquet facilities, Business centre, Laundry, Dry cleaning, Ironing service, Tour desk, Shuttle service (surcharge) General: Non-smoking rooms, Facilities for disabled guests, Lift/elevator, Safety deposit box, Heating, Design hotel, Air conditioning Languages Spoken: Portuguese, Spanish, English, German, Italian, Hebrew, French
Hotel Lobby
The hotel’s location in the heart of San Telmo, close to the subway (Subte) and buses (colectivos), is perfect for exploring all of the Buenos Aires tourist attractions. Nearby are the numerous cafes, bars,and restaurants of historic San Telmo and of course Tango shows. The world renowned San Telmo market occurs every Sunday, all year long, and the BeHotel is just a five minute walk to all of the merchants and antique vendors.
Bar
So whether straight or gay, visitors will enjoy any stay for leisure or business at the new BeHotel in the heart of all the excitement for which Buenos Aires is famous.
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT: www.behotel.com.ar
Argentina’s National Flower Festival Celebrates 50th Anniversary
Oct 3rd
Floral City Park
By Roy Heale
Anyone who has wandered the streets of Buenos Aires would probably have noticed the countless flower vendors offering their remarkably fresh blooms at very low prices. This phenomenon is due to the fact that Escobar—the so called Flower Capital of Argentina—is just under a one hour drive from the heart of Buenos Aires facilitating reasonable prices and fresh supply.
Floral Displays
Celebrating spring each year Escobar hosts the National Flower Festival and this year marks the 50th Anniversary of this fiesta. Starting at the end of September and for the first two weeks of October visitors to the park known as Floral City can enjoy floral displays, lush grounds, and of course Argentine specialty foods including fresh fruits and a variety of meats cooked on a large outdoor Parilla—-BBQ.
Fresh Fruit Sundaes
Outdoor Parilla
The last Saturday includes a parade of floral floats in the evening with the reigning Queen of the National Flower Festival presiding over the celebrations.
Visitors travel from all over Argentina to celebrate spring and you might even see gauchos—cowboys—from the Pampas in traditional costumes. Entertainment stages offer local folklore dancers in costume and regional musicians playing Spanish favorite tunes.
Gauchos From The Pampas
There is a nominal admission charge to help offset the Festival costs but an afternoon strolling around the park and enjoying magnificent spring flowers, trees, and shrubs is priceless!
The town of Escobar is easily reached from Buenos Aires by local buses and the journey takes just less than one hour. From the heart of Escobar a short inexpensive taxi ride will take visitors to the park.
So if you happen to visit the city of Buenos Aires at the launch of Spring, then be sure to take some time to stop and smell the roses!
For More Information Visit: www.fiestadelaflor.org.ar
Gay Friendly Vacation Cottage Rentals, Vaqueros, Salta, Argentina
Aug 24th
Vaqueros Town Center
By Roy Heale
Located in the foothills of the Andes at 4000′above sea level, Vaqueros is a small country village at the northern edge of the city of Salta, Argentina. With a resident population of about 4000 persons, here you will see traditional Argentina Gauchos (cowboys) on horseback making their way around the hamlet, enjoy a small town atmosphere and great low prices in restaurants or local shops.
Local Shops
Visitors can experience horseback riding on the mountain trails, hiking around the hillsides, or take a guided quadricycle tour. Or you can stroll along the trail of the Artisans, a circuit to appreciate popular local arts and crafts fabricated in wood, leather, clay and wool.
Horseback Riding on Mountain Trails
Gay-friendly accommodations are available located just 100 meters from the river and about the same distance from the village center. Luis Pezzini offers traditional Argentine cottages with all amenities from US$50 per night and they sleep up to four adults. With digital TV, WiFi, heating, and comfortable furnishings these living quarters are perfect for a country get-away and yet remain close to the city of Salta.
Comfortable Cottages
There is regular bus service (about every 15 minutes) to the city or a remise ride for about US$5.00 to downtown Salta. Your host is also very knowledgeable on the local area and can help with outdoor activities or tour advice.
Enjoy Local Delicacies
Save money and enjoy the low cost of living in Vaqueros while you enjoy the beautiful North West Argentina vacation attractions and the historic city of Salta. Find out why they call this Salta La Linda —Salta The Beautiful!
For More Information Visit:
https://www.facebook.com/alquila.ensalta
or email: luisunide@gmail.com
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